Flaubert who visited Istanbul over 100yrs ago was struck by the variety of life in the back streets. As was I when we visited two years ago. But my excitement was hardly contained as I was about to experience what I thought to be the background of Turkey's Noble Laureate in Literature of 2005.
In the fifties when Pamuk was born Istanbul had not progressed to be one of the world's capitals as Flaubert had predicted. In its 2000 year history it had become poorer and more shabby and above all more isolated. To Pamuk it had become a city of ruins not only structurally speaking but on moral grounds. Its occupants had learnt to relish the losses of several cultures thus exposing their predilection for enjoying melancholia.
Istanbul was thought of as an ageing and impoverished city buried under the ashes of a ruined empire: a cloud of doom and gloom had fallen over Istanbul due to the fall of the Ottoman empire. Images created were disciples of Attaturk now dominating the Press: caricatures of black scarved women and bearded reactionaries fingering prayer beads.
Not so in 2011. More likely holding Iphones...a mixtures of scarves coloured or original black.
A bridge over the Bospherous offers popular fishing relaxation on a Sunday. Colourful flags encourage the enthusiasm.
Markets and coffee shops encourage skilful street artists.
And 'History challenging Technology' is evident in the streets.
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This park I decided was not the scene of doom and gloom but the scene of celebration: citizens of all ages were sleeping under the eye of the statues of Attaturk and the consideration of remembered Community sages. With my camera under my arm I imaged your 'Monochrome city", Mr. Pamuk, but found only supporters of Attaturk in western dress, the signature of Attaturk tattooed on their arms, their political statements and beliefs to be revealed selectively.


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